New York Magazine

The In-Laws

Helen Lee claims to serve comfort food at her new Soho restaurant, but don’t go expecting meat loaf and mashed potatoes. The brand of comfort Mooncake Foods offers is infused with ginger, chili, soy, and lemongrass, and served with a homemade hot sauce that’s likely to cause a moment or two of delicious discomfort. A collaboration between Lee, her husband, Peter, his sister Amy, and her husband, Kenny Luong, who’s the chef, Mooncake marries diner prices and decor with the hominess of Mom’s cooking - if Mom was born, as Peter’s was, in Shanghai. She’s the one to thank for the tender wontons in the the soothing soups, the lip-smacking honey-soy marinade on the broiled chicken wings, and the perfect sticky rice. But everything resounds with the same freshness and flavor, from delicate spring and summer rolls and wonderful steamed and braised choy sum to miso-glazed salmon. Sandwiches come on toasted Italian rolls from Parisi Bakery and are served with tangily dressed salad. And nothing costs more than $8, which in these times is the greatest comfort of all.